Travelling off the beaten path in Indonesia, there will, almost inevitably, come a time when you need to charter a boat. Want to spend the night on a white sand desert island, like Dodola, off Morotai in Maluku? You'll need a boat to drop you there and pick you up. Looking to visit a pearl divers village, snorkel with manta rays or whale-watch? You will, most likely, need to haggle with a boatman. More

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